Taipei - Bad Taste?

It was painful yesterday riding through the city of Taipei. There is a special bike path built along the river which attracts all the local cyclists on the weekends. Sweet families and the weekend warrior crowd the tarmac wreaking havoc for anyone who has bit of bicycle handling, fitness and wishes to ride with a bit of speed. Anthony and I found ourselves frustrated more than joyful on this little excursion.

The river was stagnant which made a horrible stench as we rode up the path. Then the haze made me feel queasy just thinking I was breathing it in and the hoards of people made the ride so slow. I believe there is still room for improvement.
The sweet part was all the little details added to it. I loved the signage, the emblems placed on the path and the entrepreneurs along the way. Little stands with special “bike” accessories littered the trail. Items which were popular included knock-off Buffs, bells, helmets, cycle shorts and jerseys and puncture repair kits among other things. Anthony and I decided that a knock-off Buff was a necessity to keep us from breathing the hazardous air as well as a bell to warn others that we were coming through.
We stopped at a popular food destination and decided to take a look around. I always seem to be drawn to the fresh vegetables and found myself salivating in front of a corn stand. Three types of corn were displayed – white, yellow and purple corn. OK – how can you mess up corn? Oh – give it to the Taiwanese – they can do it. It was the worst corn I ever had. Like rubber on a cob. But I still wasn’t convinced; I tried ANOTHER piece of corn which was even worse than the first. How is that possible? How can you mess up something so wonderfully natural? And unfortunately that was all I could stomach as I wasn’t about to embark upon the other rubber, er, I mean food stalls that were lining the “food court.” Then I found my heart sink when I saw a cage full of young tortoises possibly used for consumption rather than pets as well as live snake/eels.
Fisherman’s Wharf is where we found ourselves but we couldn’t escape from the busy city. By that time we had had enough and decided we would take the train back to the Main Train Station with our bikes. It felt like the longest journey back. There were no bikes allowed at the Main Train Station so we had to get off at the stop prior then navigate our way through the busy streets. Why is it easier to ride in crazy Indonesia than in Taiwan?
It was busy and it was painful and all we could think about was: Get us out of here! We even went so far as checking flights to get to Sri Lanka sooner. After we found out that we would have to spend a few extra nights in Taipei in order to fly to Sri Lanka sooner we decided that perhaps we should just give the original plan a go. Lets not leave Taiwan with this “bad taste” in our mouths, lets get into the country and see what this little island is all about.
So, we are currently on the train heading to Chiayi. I am worried that the food will still be inedible, we won’t be able to escape the “Asian” haze and we will wish we were on our flight to Sri Lanka. But you know, we still need to make double sure Taiwan is not the place for us.

Taipei, Taiwan 2009

I look out the window every day and see the thick air surrounding the tall buildings. It makes me crave the fresh green countryside, and wonder if there is one?

Taipei is just another first world city full of cars, rushing people and tall buildings. It's a concrete jungle. I'll admit it's organized and the people follow strict rules of the city's organization. For one - I have to laugh at the underground train system. There are lines to where you stand before you get on the train to make it more efficient so when the passengers getting off the train don't bump into the passengers getting on. The lines are marked on the floor and it seems everyone makes a conscious effort stay within those lines - even if they curve a bit. Anthony and I would wonder what would happen if we didn't stay in between the lines, would the train police write us a ticket? Would we spend time in a Taiwanese jail? But it's a contrast to Sumatra which has NO order. It feels good having some kind of organization after coming from complete chaos in Indo.

We enjoyed the 4 days of the Taiwan bike show and saw great vendors (including our friends at Ergon) and were attracted to the new and improved weight weenie cycle components. The feeling was different to Interbike in Las Vegas (it's got great energy there) but we enjoyed it just the same. Anthony picked up a bicycle resource guide that is the size of 2 Las Vegas yellow pages and is in hog heaven. I, personlly, loved seeing familiar faces, like Gizmo Bill and his wife Colleen. After not being with people we knew (or at least I knew) it was nice seeing western friends from back home. We enjoyed the company while having a very lovely dinner at an Italian restaurant close to one of the great malls. Unfortunately the original restaurant we chose, Ostrich, was out of business. It's hard depending on Lonely Planet especially when the world evolves so quickly. I am curious what else we will find that no longer exists in Sri Lanka or perhaps East Africa?

Taipei does suck the life out of you. I am finding myself very tired and wanting to find an escape route. It's not easy to get out of the city by bike. We are going to take the train closer to our desired destination, the mountains, and cycle from there. Though Taiwan is a small island it's not that small. Plus, there are hoops to jump through as far as traveling by bike. But we are getting used to it - it always seems to be harder to travel in the first world countries than the third world ones because of the bureaucracy.

But we are off hopefully today to find the charm Taiwan has to offer. I am craving a different flavor - and if I get on the subject of flavor I would think of the food here. So I'll just give you a quick overview of what I feel the food is like here and I can some it up with ONE word: VILE. What are these people thinking? There is absolutely no flavor here - and I am not a big fan of the congealed pig blood on a stick nor the chicken heads and feet, I won't eat it. Everything else is pretty rubbery and I find there is one particular spice that I do not enjoy at all and I don't even know what that is. I have come to the conclusion, and acceptance, that I just don't care for the Chinese cuisine. I don't have to either. I don't need dim-sum in the afternoon - I'm OK with fresh fish, rice, veggies/fruit and chicken and I do not have to force myself to enjoy any dumpling with mystery filling inside it. Even Anthony - who is so daring and tries everything - finds no joy in the food here. He is just adding weight because he is curious of what each food tastes like. The verdict is: rubber. All different shapes and colors of rubber. I am hoping that the countryside will provide something new for us to try and enjoy and perhaps a breath of fresh air.

Greetings from Takengon

All is well. This is the first time I have had Internet in about a week or more. It's very remote and third world around here. Not for the weak at heart.
The people are beautiful and kind and though they don't have much there is no hesitation to invite us for a cup of coffee and chat. The riding is hard - think of volcanos everywhere - up and down. Sometimes it feels like more up than down! Perhaps that is because I am carrying an 80lb bike up those suckers.
Other than missing the communcation back home I am doing OK! It is hard going and I can't help but think if something happened anywhere I would surely be fooked! I mentioned to a friend one time (Jenny) that if something happened to me to leave me where I am. OK - not here. I meant on a mountain top or something - perhaps a crevasse. Now I think, it's OK, bring me back.
I will be posting more photos and another blog soon. Keep checking back. Until then be well! Tarimah Kaseh

A Breath of Fresh Air Please

Friday, February 27, 2009
A Breath of Fresh Air Please
Arriving in Medan and taking the taxi back to where we made base camp gave me a familiar feeling. The hustle of city life, the chaos of traffic and being back in Indo was interesting. Medan is a big city, the heart of Sumatra, and its business as usual for its locals. Just putting the bikes together, making last minute purchases and the long flight didn’t take us long to want to put our heads to rest. A sleeping pill, ear plugs and fatigue still doesn’t drown the noise beyond the walls of our homestay. We did get some rest and found ourselves waking up way before dawn ready to take on the day.

After our modest breakfast of coffee (kopi) and toast with peanut butter we loaded up the bikes and headed out of town towards Berastagi. The roads are busy with buses, motorcycles, scooters and cars. The traffic is intense as well as the exhaust fumes from them. They have their own communication system; horns blowing, taps and competing poll positions for the best path forward. We are just another vehicle on the road and that is exactly how we have to ride; aggressively! It doesn’t take long to figure out how the cycle works, if you are ahead then you have the right of way. But you have to watch it, the buses and cars will stop right in front of you without warning and you have to keep your wits about yourself, especially traveling with a loaded bike with heavy panniers and handlebar bag. It gets old after a while; the sound of buses humming by, usually too close for comfort, the smell of exhaust and the burning piles of litter at the side of the road. It didn’t take me long at all to realize I am in need of fresh air and the charm I was hoping this country has to offer. I was not impressed anymore with being in foreign surroundings, I needed more and arriving in Berastagi didn’t offer that at all. It was a very long ride to get there, about 75km of uphill, and I could’ve used a hot shower to wash off all the grime. I didn’t get that.

It’s modest here in Sumatra. Living is a daily ritual and getting through each day is just that, getting through the day. Berastagi is a busy city with a mix of Christians and Muslims and other religions living in harmony. Padangs are a mainstay in these parts; little shops or stalls with various spicy foods displayed in a window served with cooked white rice. You pick what you want – they charge you by what you eat – and it’s super cheap. It’s easy for us to choose these stalls as we ride all day and by the time we head out for a bite to eat we are too tired and hungry to sit around and wait for anything to cook. These make very good instant hunger fixes for us.

Sticky fingers also lurk in these parts and it didn’t take me long to realize I must always be on my guard. Someone took my camera off my bike. It was my little point and shoot but that little camera was the fun little toy I enjoyed the most as I was able to shoot on the fly from my bike. The day was gone and I just had to come to terms that this is what happens in these parts. The camera can, and will, be replaced but the day cannot. That is what bothers me the most, losing a day in my life. I am now forced to use my Canon 5D and Tamron 28-300 VC lens. I back-up all my photos each day now and will not take any chances anymore. Suffice to say the following day wasn’t a good one for me. I was upset and I was ready for the charm I was hoping for!

We still had a long day ahead of us, about another 120km of riding to get to Prapat where we will take the ferry across to Tuk Tuk on the Island of Pulau Samosir. This is the island in the middle of Lake Toba which sits inside a fallen volcano. This lake is bigger than Singapore and is surrounded by the crater wall with a sweet island in the middle. The view from the top was breathtaking; definitely worth all the hard work on the bike. We took the ferry across and while on the ferry were approached by a man to stay in his “hotel.” Based on the fact that we would be arriving in the dark, had our bikes and seven pieces of luggage between us (2 panniers each, two handlebar bags and one rucksack) he didn’t have to convince us that perhaps this is where we should stay. And we were pleasantly surprised. The room is a traditional Batek style building (picture an a-frame) with dark hand carved wood and modest amenities including a warm shower, a rarity in these parts, with a nice view of the lake. We have access to a restaurant and cold Bintang beer and after a good meal it was time to retire.

Landing at Lake Toba was, without a doubt, a breath of fresh air; both literally and figuratively. The morning was beautiful and peaceful. The sounds of nature filled the air; birds, crickets, frogs and fish jumping in the lake were music to my ears. It sure beats the sounds of beeping horns, motorbikes and bad loud music coming from blown speakers. It is here that I feel good.The villages on the island are small and though this was once a hopping tourist destination now appears to be a ghost town. Not too many tourists come here and those that are here seem to be more mature. I find there are a lot more Europeans than Americans. But I am also happy to say being American isn’t so bad now that Obama is President. If I say I am American the locals will recite his name with a gleeful smile. After all he did go to grade school in Indonesia so for him to become President of the United States is something the locals can be proud of.

Today is my day to gather my thoughts, soak in the surroundings and write my blog while Anthony goes off for a training ride. Tomorrow is back on the bike and very hard going travel. Kutacane is our next destination with some time to check out Gunung Leuser National Park. This park is one of the most special parks on the planet with all its threatened wild life and delicate eco-system. I am not sure what to expect yet but I am certain biting insects will be key to avoid. Then it’s off towards the Aceh province, Banda Aceh (the hardest hit by the 2004 Tsunami) and Pulau Weh Marine Park for some diving. I doubt I will have many Internet options so this might be the last blog I post for a while. So until then, wish us safe travels and send your good energy our way as we will be approaching the unknown soon! Thanks for stopping by!

Florence Arizona

It appears I made mistake about Florence, Arizona and it is not just the town that houses Arizona's State Pen and a McDonald's but actually has history.

I have been informed by a Florence resident that I missed quite the festivities this year on Valentine's Day. This reader wrote:

Read your blog comments on Florence AZ and I have this to say...

Too bad you didn't actually go into Florence AZ on Valentines Day.That was the day they had their historic tour. The town has over 100 buildings on the National Register and this was the day some of the public and private homes and buildings are open to the public. You missed an antique show, book sale, quilt show, old time fiddle music and the chance to see Florence homes from the 1870's on up. Some of these old adobes are quite photogenic, as is the 1891 Victorian Courthouse.

The museum in Florence is quite incredible and has furniture made out of cactus, and has info on the lady stagecoach robber and a sobering prison display of the nooses used for hangings among a lot of other amazing things. Its a great, interesting, historic, and authentic western town recently picked as #4 of the top ten true western towns by True West Magazine for 2009. Too bad you didnt get off the highway and see the real town. There is so much more than just the prison and McDonalds.

I think this person is correct, I would have loved to have gotten off the highway to view this quaint little town with big personality on Valentine's Day! Thank you for sharing!

Solo Winners

24 Hours of The Old Pueblo

Location: A few miles outside of Tucson Arizona
Place: 24 hours of The Old Pueblo
Date: February 13th thru 15th, 2009

It was a beautiful drive coming from Las Vegas. The sun was high and the skies were clear blue. A complete contrast of what the forecast was a couple days prior which called for cold, clouds and rain. Over Hoover Dam and seeing the new construction of the bridge was a sight to see. It is amazing how they construct bridges especially that high! The views of Black Canyon were awesome and the little buds of grass was a small sign that rain had just passed and perhaps spring is on it's way!

Getting into Arizona was wonderful. I was in awe of all the Saguaro Cacti. Never have I seen so many and different species of cacti not to mention concentration of them. They were everywhere. My eyes were everywhere excepth the road - just kidding we arrived safely.

Though we did have to stop overnight as the drive was quite long. Not a good idea when it was Valentines weekend - who wants to take their Valentine to Florence? Italy perhaps but Florence, Arizona? There's the Arizona State Pen down the road and McDonalds that's all. But all motels were booked then we realized there was an Indian Flute Festival and Renaissance Festival happening that same weekend. We were lucky to have even found a room in the Hampton Inn at the rate we were going and it was higher than Vegas rates!

Eventually we made it to the venue, after one of the best nights' of sleep we have had in a long time, the following day. The camping area was getting packed and athletes and their support crew were arriving by car, truck and RV loads. It was nice that Robin and Leslie had a camping spot picked out for us already and it was easy to spot. We had enough room to get Ian and Sully's RV in as well.

Anthony and I went out to test ride the course and it was super fun. Lots of fast single track, cactus dodging, an occasional cow and firm packed trail. The recipe for fun! After our trail ride it was time for Anthony to hit the pasta and do last minute adjustments to his bikes.

The next morning was perfect. The crowds were out and about, the vendors were open for business and the coffee wagon line was out of control. The athletes were ready for registration and getting their poll positions in order. Bikes were lined up along the course as the riders made their way for the running start. It wasn't long before the elite athletes were in the front ready to tackle the first lap. The first soloist around the 16 mile course was Tinker Juarez followed by Evan Plews who was not far behind. It wasn't long until Ian Leitch and Anthony White made their way around - first hour was down 23 more hours to go.

It was cat and mouse for a while between Ian and Anthony. Neither could keep up the pace with Tinker or Evan and Evan made his way to the top followed by Ant and Ian - or was it Ian and Ant? Regardless at one point Ian was third and Ant was third but Ant ended up having to pull out after 14 hours (11 laps) because he couldn't see. The desert sand took it's toll on his sensitive eyes and he got a little too close for comfort with the native cacti and became a painful pin cushion. It wasn't a total loss as we did have Ian to help which in the end got an incredible second place finish to Evan, both with 18 laps, and Tinker coming in at third place with 17.

I have to thank all the vendors who have been so good to us - well - me! First is Jeff Kerkove with Ergon grips. Thank you for the awesome carbon Ergon grips that I get to use during my travels abroad. I am so excited about them. AND my great friends at Deuter - thank you! AND our newest sponsor Rudy Project. Next year there will be no excuses for Anthony to not finish this race and win. Ha!

Now it's time to repack everything for this big trip Anthony and I are taking with more fun stories to share, so check back and keep in touch. And until then I wish you happy trails.